Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Introduction

When you finish going through this blog I hope you will be left with the following ideas, thoughts, and impressions:

  1. No photo, not even the ones taken by Ansel Adams, can really capture the scale and beauty of Yosemite National Park. Your eyes are your best camera for capturing memories so you have to go in person to experience it.
    Hopefully the photos in this blog will help persuade you to visit the park.
  2. It's understandable why this particular site has the power to affect individuals.
    It did for me. You'll understand why it provided the back drop for some life-changing experiences on a personal level.
  3. The blog is a nice blend of photos and words. That was my goal. In the end it's easier to let the photos do the "talking".

Thanks for taking some time to go through this blog. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did putting it together.

Ed

Monday, September 28, 2009

Our Itinerary

Mary and I left Pittsburgh on September 2. We flew to Jackson, California which is about an hour from Sacramento. After staying with her brother in Jackson we rented a car and drove to Yosemite which was only a few hours away.

The Grand Entrance

When you enter the park you go through a tunnel that sets you up for the view on
the other side.

Half Dome from Above the Valley



Enlarge for full view.

So How In the Heck Did This Park Come to Be


Be sure to visit the Yosemite Museum to get a greater understanding (and appreciation) of how these mountains were formed. It's boring stuff only if presented in a dull way, but that's not the case here. The park has done a fanatastic job with displays to help you understand how nature creates such a place.

Raised Relief Map in Visitors Center



When you enter the Yosemite Visitor's Center you are greeted by this raised relief map showing Yosemite Valley.

Looking In Unconventional Places For Pictures


Naturally when you enter the park you're usually looking up. Sometimes you have to break your gaze on the towering mountains and find cool scenes reflected in the streams below.

The Dry Season


There are pros and cons of when you visit the park. We came after Labor Day so the infamous summer crowds were gone. I can't imagine Yosemite in July. That said, you lose one of the iconic waterfalls that make Yosemite famous if you come in the summer or early fall.
Behind me should be a huge waterfall but naturally it's the dry season.
I understand it's best to come in the early Spring when nature's faucets are running at full power.

Here is a site that gives you a good idea of what it looks like when the water is flowing.

http://trifter.com/usa-canada/magnificent-waterfalls-of-yosemite-national-park-2/

Black and White vs. Color


ENLARGE

No doubt influenced by Ansel Adams I wanted to capture some of the scenes in black and white. This picture isn't half as effective in color. For anyone who went through photography school you will remember having to learn the "Zone System" created by Adams. If you would like to know how he captured images in glorious black and white visit some of these sites:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/zone_system.shtml

Honestly, I didn't employ the zone system. I used Photoshop after the picture was taken.

Best Ways to Get Around


For us the answer was obvious--rent bikes. You can rent bikes from Curry Village by the hour or for a full day. Trust me, an hour won't be enough. Cough up the extra bucks and get the bike for the day.
You can also take the one of the many shuttles that stops frequently and conveniently throughout Yosemite Valley.
I would discourage driving only because parking can be a real challenge.

Of course for most of us mortals biking to the higher elevations is out of the question. If you want to see Glacier Ridge then it's better to drive or take one of the tour buses.

Yosemite: Preview of Coming Attractions



It's as if the trees are huge curtains that slowly pull back as you drive into the park and the main attraction is gradually revealed. Stunning.

Scale





After you enter the park your sense of proportion is turned upside down. I imagine even the biggest ego is cut down to size by El Capitan which looms thousands of feet above. This is nature's demonstration of the concept of a Higher Power.
Click on this picture, you may have to scroll down a bit to see the two puny figures and you get an idea how we match up to these granite walls.

The Big Guy---El Capitan


Rising 3,000 feet above you El Capitan is "the largest monolith of granite in the world" so says Wikipedia. Its surface reflects the light in ways that are impossible to describe. Depending on the time of day and season El Capitan seems to offer a hundred new ways to take its picture.

Tree Framed Mountains




Early Morning Light on El Capitan


I got up pre-dawn to catch the early rays of the sun on the walls. Again, it was as if the park is revealed slowly, deliberately, and in a way that you don't get the full impact right away.

Morning Light Grows Brighter


The "Face" of El Capitan.


Every Day Is Casual Day in Yosemite



Three days of not shaving was okay with me, but Mary surely celebrated when I broke out the
razor.

Ansel Adams Gallery


Any visit to Yosemite should include a stop at the Ansel Adams Gallery. Here you can find many books, posters, and DVDs showcasing his work. I may have been frowning in this picture after learning that it cost $95 to take the Ansel Adams Photo Tour where you visit the places he photographed. In addition to getting some insight into his techniques you also visit his workshop in the park. Now that's what I would have loved to see.
I have started a fund so on my next visit I'll be able to go.

VIDEO: Mary Finds Her Perfect Bike

As mentioned, we found the best way to see the valley is on bike. Mary loved the fact they are old-fashioned bikes with foot brakes and no gears.

Bears or No Bear Sleeping



Where to stay in Yosemite is dependent on how much you want (or don't want) to spend for a certain level of comfort.
Here are two options at both ends of the spectrum.

1. Housekeeping Campground. A step up from sleeping on the ground in a tent. You get three walls, a semi-comfortable bed, and electricity. Affordable. However, you are sleeping in nature's bedroom so bears are a reality. If you use commonsense and want to experience Yosemite after dark this is the way to go.

2. The Awhahnee Hotel. No danger of bears, guaranteed. A hugely popular hotel rich in history. Presidents and movie stars have stayed here. Then again, they can afford to.
If staying overnight at the Awhanee is out of the question at least splurge for a pricey but excellent meal in the restaurant.

Upscale Primitive Camping




Personally, we found the Housekeeping Campground to be great--at least for two days. Each unit has an eating area, fire rings in some of them, and a cozy sleeping area. We rented a propane stove. It suited our needs. There is a central public shower building with HOT water.
No complaints here.
And yes, there are other options such as staying in Curry Village. How you want to sleep in the park is a matter of personal cost and comfort.

What You Don't Want to Wake Up To


The odds of this being the first thing in your sleepy eyes is quite remote, unless of course you go out of your way to invite bears into your campground. Read the literature about not feeding the bears or accidentally issuing an invite with uncovered food. Take it seriously, folks.
The park rangers will help you to take it seriously with a seriously written fine.
My fear was returning our rented car with claw marks on the seat and a door partially torn off its hinges. Yes, it can happen if you leave even a half open bag of Cheetos inside the vehicle.
We did see a bear just minutes after arriving at the campground. A bunch of knuckleheads ran over to make it pose for pictures, but Mary and I decided against it. During the night several bears did wander past our unit but I guess we had nothing to offer.

Unwanted Guests


No worries this is just some Photoshop magic. The bear is stuffed.

Each unit comes with a bear locker. Truthfully the only things that are true threats are the many, many chipmunks that hang around like unwanted relatives at a picnic.
Mary set down an apple, turned around, and in seconds a chipmunk ran up and off with her apple in his mouth. The apple was almost bigger than the pest so it was some comic relief to watch him try to make off with the booty.
You may be tempted to feed these critters but hold on that impulse.

This Isn't An Oversized Frying Pan


Someone remarked that it looks like I'm sitting in front of an eight foot frying pan. This is actually our fire ring.

Mary and I Enjoy a Roaring Fire




Deer


The only other exciting wildlife we encountered was this deer. It had made its home directly behind a store in Curry Village.

Big Meadow Fire


By pure luck we arrived in Yosemite just as the Big Meadow Fire was brought under control. However, the results of that fire were evident as parts of the area were still burning. This sign tells a lot about the fire which sadly started out as a controlled burn.
(CLICK ON PHOTO TO MAKE IT READABLE)

The Big Meadow Fire Area =



Enlarge this map showing the areas devastated by the Big Meadow Fire. It's staggering to imagine how many hundreds of acres were destroyed.

A Lone Survior of the Fire


Big Meadow After the Fire


Enlarge

Here you can see the wide swath of destruction from the fire. As you can see small fires were still burning.

VIDEO: Panorama of Big Meadow Fire

Here is a short film clip I shot of the Big Meadow.

Going Where I'm Not Supposed To....



Mary reluctantly complied with my request to stop the car and let me climb down the hill near Big Meadow where the forest had been destroyed. It wasn't dangerous, but I'm glad I didn't have to explain that to a park ranger. :-)
This area was deep in white ash. Some of the trees were still smoking, but the smoke created these incredible effects with the sunlight.
I'm even more surprised Mary let me BACK IN the car. I smelled like a burning pine tree for along time on that trip.

Forest Fire in Black and White


ENLARGE
Once again a picture is made more effective in black and white. Truthfully this whole area was so covered in smoke and ash that it is only rendered close to reality with an absence of color.

Amazing Effect


Getting covered in ash was worth it to get shots such as this one.

Rebirth


I'm not sure but I believe this was an area that was hit by fire many years ago. At least it looked that way. What a contrast from the recent fire damage to see that nature does come back as strong as ever.

The Money Shots


ENLARGE
We were re-entering the park after exploring the burned out areas. The sun had begun to set.
It was an incredible sight at the mountain tops seemed to be on fire from the setting sun. Mary found a pull-off spot and I raced 1/2 mile back up the road for this vantage point.

I climbed down into the stream for this angle.

Photographers know you really have less than fifteen minutes before this scene vanishes as the sun sets.

Golden Glow


ENLARGE

The Way it Is


This photo is untouched nor enhanced with Photoshop. It really looked this way.

Do Look Down--------


As i was taught in photo school you should always look down or around for shots you might be missing. A different angle is all it takes to find something worth shooting instead of the subject itself.

Glacier Point Sundown

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_Point

So it's one thing to take in Yosemite, but to truely get the full experience you have to drive about an hour to Glacier Point which gives you an amazing view of the valley below.

The Surrounding Elevations

ENLARGE
Here is a handy postcard that gives you some idea of the scale of the mountains you see from Glacier Point.

On the Edge



Walk just six feet more and you will then be over 7, 124 feet above Yosemite Valley. I decided to use my zoom lense to get this close. It's a vertigo filled scene as you look straight down from the mountain's edge.

The Valley Below


Mary at Glacier Point


Glacier Point


Luckily we got there early enough to find an uncrowded spot. If you're going to visit Glacier Point be sure to build in enough time to deal with traffic going up the mountain and crowds gathering at the edge to watch the sun set on Half Dome.

As Far As I Go


Heights have never really bothered me so I felt at relative easy on this perch. I did remember to give Mary the keys to the rented car...I mean a gust of wind it could make things really bad for everyone.

Half Dome at Sunset


Enlarge photo--it's spectacular.